Day 3 - Santa Margherita Ligure

Exploring Base Camp 

I’ve decided that I want the time at SML to be very holiday-like, rather than touring/tourist-like. That will mean not much reportable activity on the days I’m there. Having said that today was a bit touristy, to get used to the place.

My agenda for the day had two items. See if I could set up the music system/stereo in the apartment, a request by the owners, Paola and Sylvia. And pack for my first ‘tour’: “T-I-M-m”. Surely not too challenging, right?

As is my developing custom, I started the day completing the previous day’s blog entry. Between a slow start, and a leisurely pace of work, it was nearly lunchtime by the time I turned to my agenda. I pulled the stereo equipment from its place in a cabinet in the lounge and proceeded to catalogue the things I would need to set it up. In short, connecting cables and a couple of power cables. I diligently photographed the relevant equipment for the forthcoming slide show I’d need to use to coordinate with electrical store shop-keepers.

Then I had lunch (leftover pizza from last night’s dinner – more evidence of the learning curve of ordering in a restaurant), grabbed my stuff, and set off on a shopping expedition to get the stereo sorted. In hindsight, I made a rookie error. Astute readers will have realised that siesta closing time was looming. When I got to the electrical store I had in mind, it was closed, till 4:00 pm.

Not wanting to waste the time out of the apartment, I decided to wander up to the train station and work out what I’d need to do to get to Trieste the next day. I’m a bit of an anxious traveller when there’s coordination and connections involved, and especially when it’s the first time I’m doing it. I wanted to reassure myself that it would play out like I imagined by checking with the railway staff. Ultimately, I worked out a preferred travel time from SML to Trieste on the railpass app, booked the trip, and then bought the seat reservations for those legs that required one from the helpful railway person at SML.

Much reassured that I had a locked in plan, I wandered out of the station and realised that there’s a great view from the station across the SML harbour. I hadn’t seen that when I arrived because it was dark.

Across the harbour mouth from the station

Across the beach to the town from the station

I also captured some more photos of SML generally on the walk to and from the station.

Up the hill from the station

Amazing architecture in SML

I decided to take the long way home to see some more of SML and to re-take a photo of a particular laneway that I’d messed up yesterday. That led me to discover that the local cathedral was open. It has currently got scaffolding all up its front face and has looked properly closed every time I have walked by. Today, the door was open and people (mostly tourists, I feel) were going in an out. So, I ventured in. Oh, my! The interior is quite remarkable and not at all hinted at by the blocky exterior of the building. There is no doubt that the local community glorify their God.

Cathedral nave

Cathedral nave with cupola above

Cathedral South transcept

I wandered back home after the really amazing experience of the local cathedral. I wound through some lanes I’d not traversed before and discovered some shops I would need in the future. Ultimately, I arrived back home having achieved tasks I’d not set out to do, but still no closer to getting the stereo set up.

In due course, I went back down to town (this is only a 5 minute walk, so it’s not onerous) and visited the electrical store that had helped me earlier. He helped me again, but couldn’t help with some things. I tried the ‘hardware store’ that had helped me last time too, and he couldn’t help me with speaker cables (old school speakers on the stereo system). He gave me directions (in Italian) to a place that might be able to help. I followed his directions as best I could but I couldn’t find the place that he spoke about. I returned home and started setting things up with what I had. The TV is now connected to the DVD player, but I don’t have the DVD player connected to power (I need a double-adaptor). The stereo is connected to the record player but I bought the wrong power cable for the stereo. In short, baby steps.

I passed the rest of the day reading. I went out to try a restaurant literally around the corner from the apartment that has good reviews online. It turns out, it wasn’t open. Nor was my next choice. I wonder if Wednesday is not a restaurant day in SML, like Mondays can be at home (others were open). I ended up in a pizzeria down the road, recommended by Paola. It was very quaint, almost archetypal of a family-run Italian restaurant. As I’d had pizza for lunch, I thought that I would order a pasta. They had Carbonara on the menu, my favourite! When I ordered it, the lady said, “Not pasta; pizza carbonara.” I was crushed. I said that I thought this little section was all pasta, but no, everything was pizza. But the woman suddenly said ‘wait on’ (or something obviously meaning that, in Italian) and vanished to the kitchen. She came back 3 minutes later, when I’d become resigned to the pizza, to say “We do pasta.” Thrilled, I ordered spaghetti carbonara. And it was worth it. The carbonara was as good as I’ve had.

Daily facts: Location: Santa Margherita Temp: 24C Weather: Clear skies.