Days 57 and 58 - Santa Margherita Ligure (and Travelling to [R]ome)

Day 58 – Last journery for this holiday

SML from the station

I rose early after a surprisingly good sleep – the anxious traveller managed to rest too. I finalised my packing, finalised closing up the apartment, and headed for the train station in good time. I’m feeling quite sad about leaving SML, though (by now) also keen to have my long time away from home come to an end. When I got to the station, the bright morning light was showing SML harbour in glorious light, so I took a last look of the town.

The train trip to Rome was uneventful, though delayed so that I arrived about 20 minutes late in Roma Ostiense, which meant that I needed to run to the suburban train I needed to go (back) to Roma Trastevere, only inconvenient because I have two big bags to drag around on this journey. I had already checked what the walk would be like to the AirBNB from Roma Ostiense (39 minutes). Not fantastic, especially because it was lightly raining in patches in Rome when I got there, but doable if I missed the connection. Anyway, I made the connection and got off at Roma Trastevere to head to the AirBNB.

Immediately outside Roma Trastevere	Another view outside Roma Trastevere
Beautiful boulevard that I walked down	Sure, the boulevard was ‘mostly flat’

The walk from Roma Trastevere was 26 minutes (according to Google) and “mostly flat.” I’ve learned that “mostly” is doing a lot of heavy-lifting in that phrase. Sure, there’s “mostly” flat walking, but the not-flat bits can be back-breakers, especially in Europe. I was only three minutes away from my destination (on Google Maps) when I got to the ‘not flat’ bit of the walk (and, yes, the stairs were marked on the route). It turns out, this staircase is called Scalea del Tamburino and is a historical landmark. I suppose that makes it OK. But I was not keen to carry the two bags up the staircase. The video tries to show what it felt like facing the challenge. Unfortunately, I cannot report making the climb in a single effort. I had to stop three times: halfway up, three-quarters up, and then at the top. My fitness is not where I would like it to be! (In my defence, the bags are awkward to carry up stairs and weigh a combined ~30kg.)

The Scalea del Tamburino (from the bottom)

Video of what it felt like at the foot of the climb

The Scalea del Tamburino (from the top)

It was a very short walk from the top of the stairs to my AirBNB. However, finding the place on my first visit was a little complicated. The apartment is in a large complex of private apartments built in a sort of vertical village, with staircases and small terraced piazzas sloping down the hill. Apartments come off at various landings. It’s actually really charming, but the first time trying to find one door in the failing light, having not read the welcome instructions carefully enough took longer than I wanted it to. The scenery around the apartment complex is quite interesting.

The view from the top of Scalea del Tamburino

Entry to the Catholic University of America, opposite the entry to my AirBNB complex

The Mausoleo Ossario Garibaldino (Google tells me), also opposite the AirBNB site

Having attained the flat I’m staying in here in Rome, I decompressed, sorted out how to operate the apartment, and eventually, made some plans for an early dinner (no meals all day, just snacks). It turns out that a very highly-rated restaurant is in the building next to mine (outside the apartment complex), literally 20m further down the road. Obviously, I went there, and it was great. A fancy place with a really cool vibe. The service was excellent and the food was great. I know that I have a fall-back option for meals now that will never be a compromise.

The flat that I’m staying in

Ombre Rosse, very hip

How they presented Tiramisu – their version was lovely, but not enough biscuits/cake for me

I spent the evening streaming nonsense on YouTube then reading for a while, before heading to bed. This one is a very firm bed – really good for me!

Daily facts: Location: (Travelling to) [R]ome Temp: 11 Weather: Cloudy, patches of rain

Day 57 – Santa Margherita Ligure

Sadly, my time in SML has come to an end. Today involved another blog post to catch everyone up on my slow-period and then working through the apartment removing all my stuff that had been distributed during my stay and cleaning everything. It’s not very big, so I didn’t have to rush. It was kind-of sad too. I’ve really come to like the apartment and Santa Margherita Ligure more broadly. I feel quite comfortable here. I’m ready to go home but not because I want to leave this place.

Dinner was at Il Patio again as the other places I had thought I might go were all closed (either for holidays, or just on Monday). It was lovely again. It was also very quiet as only one other couple came in while I was there. There is no doubt in my mind that SML is a seaside tourist town and just like the ones I am very familiar with in Australia (e.g. Merimbula), it is very quiet in the winter.

I had an early night because I wanted to wake refreshed early to be able to leave the apartment in good time for the train. I realised that I would have to schlepp both bags up the hill to the train station, so it would take longer than my normal walk. Also, as I’d made the apartment all clean and neat, I didn’t want to mess up any of it just before leaving. I’ll strip the bed in the morning and that will remove the ‘messiness’ of my last hours in the apartment.

Daily facts: Location: Santa Margherita Ligure Temp: 11 Weather: Overcast; patches of light rain and patches of sunlight